The Melanin Formula Custom-Built for Us That Fixes Skincare's Biggest Gap

Image Credit: Tay Steward

When Tay Steward looked in the mirror in her mid-20s, she found that her reflection was familiar but never satisfying.

Acne and dark marks had lingered for years, stubborn against an endless rotation of drugstore products and luxury creams.

“I struggled with those issues all the way into my mid-20s,” she said. “I used countless products with no results. That made me realize I was struggling to find products that truly worked for melanin-rich skin.”

That realization became the foundation for Add To Cart Beauty, a self-funded, science-backed skincare brand built specifically for women of color.

A Personal Mission

Steward’s frustrations weren’t limited to her own routine. Her daughters also faced challenges: one with eczema, the other with sensitive skin. “Crafting and executing the creation of my products began with creating solutions rooted in science, made for us, by us,” she said.

She credits her business coach, King Ashley Ann, with shaping her approach. “When you sell to everyone, you sell to no one,” Steward said. Steward explained that this lesson pushed her to rethink the way beauty companies frame their products.  “I realized that mainstream skincare often speaks in broad strokes using phrases like ‘all skin types’ and ‘universal solutions,’ but in doing so, they completely miss the specific needs of melanin-rich skin.”

This realization made the next step obvious. The gap was clear. “I wanted to create a brand that didn’t treat women of color as an afterthought, but as the priority,” she said.

A Different Standard

For Steward, the point of difference lies in formulation. “Melanin-rich skin deserves more than guesswork,” she said. “Too often, products marketed to us are watered down, filled with trendy ingredients that don’t actually address our skin’s biology, or rely on marketing claims instead of real results.”

Instead, she rooted Add To Cart Beauty in research. Every product begins with customer needs, then moves through rounds of ingredient selection and testing. “From there, I look at peer-reviewed research and proven actives, then balance them with soothing botanicals,” she said. “Each formula goes through testing for texture, scent and effectiveness to ensure it works for deeper tones without irritation.”

The brand’s hero product is the Turmeric Bikini Scrub, created to address hyperpigmentation in intimate areas. “For melanin-rich skin, which is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, turmeric helps minimize the cycle of irritation and dark spots,” she said. “It brightens without bleaching, exfoliates without stripping and soothes without clogging pores.”

The Customer in Mind

Steward envisions a core customer who has already tried everything. “She’s a woman in her 30s or over 35 who has tried everything and is tired of being disappointed,” she said.

The target customer she has in mind is specific: a multitasking woman balancing work, family and self-care, who shops at Target, Whole Foods, Sephora, Ulta or Amazon. She gravitates toward shows such as Being Mary Jane and Insecure and blends self-care with humor and storytelling.

“When she uses Add To Cart Beauty, I want her to feel empowered, confident and cared for,” Steward said. “Not like she’s ‘fixing’ her skin, but like she’s investing in it.”

Dispelling Myths

Part of building the brand has been addressing misconceptions. “That we don’t need sunscreen. That we don’t need targeted care. That our skin is ‘tough.’ None of this is true,” she said.

She also noted that melanin-rich skin can be highly sensitive. “There’s a misconception that deeper skin is tougher and needs stronger products, when in reality melanin-rich skin can be highly reactive to harsh exfoliants, fragrances or bleaching agents,” she said.

Education, she added, is inseparable from marketing. “We send educational emails, educate on social media and we even add information on our labels and product tip cards,” she said. “I believe education is part of empowerment. If women understand why a product works, they’ll feel more confident using it consistently.”

Building Trust Through Transparency

Transparency is another core value. Steward sometimes posts DIY videos showing followers how to make products similar to her own. “Many of our customers have been misled or ignored by the beauty industry,” she said. “I want them to know Add To Cart Beauty is a safe space where they’ll get honesty, not just hype.”

That trust has been reinforced by feedback. “I’ve had women message me saying, ‘For the first time in years, I feel comfortable leaving the house without makeup,’” she said, or that their dark spots finally faded after trying everything else. Those stories remind me why I started.”

Scaling Without Compromise

Growing without outside investors has meant Steward often wears multiple hats. “From creating my own product photography to printing labels myself, to managing social media, to personally fulfilling orders, every step has required me to be resourceful,” she said.

That resourcefulness, she added, has benefits. “Instead of trying to compete with big-budget beauty campaigns, I focus on building genuine connections through education, storytelling and customer results,” she said.

Visibility remains a challenge. “With so many voices and brands fighting to be seen, it can be difficult to stand out, especially as a small, self-funded business,” she said. “For melanin-rich skincare, the challenge is even greater because we’re often placed in the ‘niche’ category. That means we have to work twice as hard to not only prove our products are effective, but also to make sure they don’t get buried in the endless scroll.”

Yet milestones mark steady progress. Add To Cart Beauty was selected as a vendor at Canvas Beauty’s 2023 Party in the Pasture event, a showcase alongside other Black-owned brands. In November 2024, the company crossed $10,000 in monthly sales for the first time. “That was such a validating milestone for a self-funded brand,” she said.

The Industry at Large

Steward acknowledges that the beauty industry has made progress in inclusivity. “More shades of foundation, more campaigns featuring diverse models,” she said. “But when it comes to skincare, melanin-rich skin is still underserved. We’re seen in marketing more than we’re represented in labs and boardrooms.”

Funding, she emphasized, is where change is most needed. “Black-owned brands receive only a fraction of venture capital compared to others, even when we’re solving problems no one else is addressing,” she said. “True equity means not just putting us in commercials, but investing in our innovation.”

What’s Next

The brand’s next phase expands in two directions: targeted treatments for hyperpigmentation and indulgent care products. Launches on the horizon include a Fade Balm for underarms, knees, and inner thighs, a sunscreen and Black African Soap, a customer request.

“I want Add To Cart Beauty to be the go-to destination for melanin-rich skin — not just for products, but for education and empowerment,” she said. Within five years, she hopes to open a physical location where customers can connect in person.

Defining Success

For Steward, success isn’t measured only in sales. “It’s when a woman feels confident in her skin again, or when our community feels seen and supported,” she said.

Her advice to other Black beauty founders reflects the same ethos. “Stay rooted in your ‘why,’ she said. “The market is competitive, and it’s easy to get lost chasing trends. But if your products solve real problems for your community, your brand will stand out.”

As she continues to balance growth and mission, Steward returns to the same principle. “Growth matters,” she said. “But never at the expense of the women I created this brand for.”