Telfar’s New Bag Anchors Fall Trends as Black Designers in New York and Chicago Redefine Urban Cool
As temperatures begin to drop, fashion houses are signaling that Fall 2025 will be defined by layers, saturated tones and a blend of utility with elegance.
But beyond the runways of Paris and Milan, Black-owned brands in New York and Chicago are reshaping the conversation.
Their collections merge cultural storytelling with practical design, creating pieces that do more than follow trends. They set them.
Telfar’s “Plastic Bag” Takes Center Stage
Few launches have captured attention this season like Telfar’s new “Plastic Bag.” Long known for the cult-favorite “Shopping Bag,” often dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin,” Telfar has reimagined a New York staple—the ubiquitous corner-store plastic bag—and transformed it into an enduring symbol of accessible luxury.
The bag comes in two sizes. The regular edition, retailing for $148, is roomy enough for a 13-inch laptop, while the jumbo version, at $195, functions as a carry-on. Made from durable, double-lined nylon, the bag is waterproof and practical, with deep side pockets, a zip pocket, a slit pocket, and even a hidden stash.
Its designs span 11 different prints, many referencing the familiar “Thank you for shopping” graphic that has long been part of New York street life, now reinvented with Telfar’s “T within a C” logo.
The launch, both online and at Telfar’s Broadway flagship, is more than a product release. It is a cultural moment that highlights what many call “New York cool.” Functional, playful and unapologetically urban, the bag embodies the city’s energy. It is designed not for runways but for the subway, late-night gatherings and work-to-weekend movement.
New York’s Black Designers Elevating the Season
Alongside Telfar, several Black-owned labels are shaping Fall 2025 in meaningful ways.
Hanifa has introduced sculptural knit dresses, ranging from $350 to $600, that embrace bold color and texture. Her designs nod to fall’s emphasis on warmth but add a modern silhouette.
Brother Vellies, founded by Aurora James, continues its commitment to sustainability. This fall, the brand offers boots priced around $600 and up, built with artisanal techniques and designed to be both stylish and long-lasting.
Wales Bonner blends tailoring with sporty influences, offering suiting and separates priced from $800 to $1,200. Her work speaks to a global audience while retaining a distinctly Black diasporic perspective.
Together, these designers highlight how Black fashion in New York fuses luxury with cultural commentary. They push beyond seasonal trends to emphasize identity, accessibility, and relevance.
Chicago Adds Its Own Voice
Chicago’s Black-owned designers are also playing an important role in the conversation, showing that urban fashion innovation is not limited to New York.
Colleen Allen, Chicago-born and Parsons-trained, has gained attention for sculpted fleece outerwear that balances comfort with sleek urban edge.
Sky Cubacub, through Rebirth Garments, creates bright, accessible clothing rooted in queer and disability-inclusive design. Their work makes fall fashion about inclusion as much as aesthetics.
Jermikko Shoshanna Johnson, better known as Jermikko, has long been a staple of Chicago design. Her work reached global recognition when Beyoncé wore one of her hoodies in the film “Lemonade.”
Maria Pinto, known for outfitting Michelle Obama, continues to build a legacy of versatile, machine-washable elegance through her M2057 line. Prices range from $75 to $250, making high design attainable for everyday wearers.
Kendall Reynolds of Kendall Miles offers luxury footwear crafted for both style and comfort. Her shoes, worn by stars like Rihanna and Kehlani, reflect Hyde Park roots while speaking to global audiences.
These designers underscore Chicago’s growing role as a hub for Black fashion. Their work speaks to sustainability, inclusivity and practicality, offering pieces that feel as relevant in community spaces as they do on national stages.
The Trends Defining Fall 2025
While individual collections differ, certain trends stand out across the season:
Sculptural Knitwear: Dresses and sweaters that highlight form and texture, seen in collections by Hanifa and Colleen Allen.
Earth and Jewel Tones: A palette anchored in chocolate, olive, rust, cobalt and crimson.
Functional Luxury Bags: Accessories that blend utility with style, epitomized by Telfar’s “Plastic Bag.”
Sustainable Footwear: Boots and shoes that emphasize heritage and responsibility, with Brother Vellies and Kendall Miles leading the way.
Inclusive Tailoring: Suits and separates with sporty edges or adaptive design, highlighted by Wales Bonner and Sky Cubacub.
Everyday Ready-to-Wear: Elegant but practical garments designed for daily life, such as Maria Pinto’s M2057 line.
Streetcrafted Icons: Items inspired by everyday culture elevated into luxury, like Telfar’s bag and Jermikko’s hoodies.
A Season Rooted in Urban Cool
Fall 2025 is less about extravagance and more about resonance. The strongest fashion stories this season are tied not only to style but to the cities that shape them. New York offers grit and energy, distilled into Telfar’s bag and Wales Bonner’s tailoring. Chicago brings inclusivity, sustainability, and legacy through designers like Sky Cubacub, Maria Pinto and Jermikko.
Together, these voices prove that Black designers are not simply following trends but setting the tone for how fall fashion will be experienced. They take the textures, palettes and silhouettes of the season and infuse them with cultural meaning and lived identity.
As consumers step into cooler months, they will not just be layering knits and reaching for boots. They will be wearing symbols of community, heritage and urban resilience. And in the process, they will be carrying forward a vision of fashion that is practical, personal and unapologetically cool.
